Wine Vault: 19th Hole-America and Friends

The Wines:

1970 BV Napa Cabernet Sauvignon

1968 BV Napa Cabernet Sauvignon

1966 BV Napa Cabernet Sauvignon

1968 BV Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

1970 BV Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

1984 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon

1983 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon

1981 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon

1980 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon

1980 Heitz "Bella Oaks Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon

1992 Caymus Special Select (served from imperial)

1994 Vineyard 29 Cabernet Sauvignon

1995 Pahlmeyer Chardonnay

1996 Pinot Gris- Willakenzie Estate

1995 Pinot Noir- Willakenzie Estate

1995 Adelsheim Pinot Noir

1989 Williams-Selyem "Rochioli" Pinot Noir

1995 W.H. Smith Pinot Noir "Hellenthal Vineyard"

1992 Clos Erasmus

1970 BV Napa Cabernet Sauvignon

Unlike the 1968 Napa bottling, the 1970 is still drinking very well. Here the fruit is sweeter and more assertive, with scents of plums, cherries, hints of chocolate, forest floor tones, a bit of molasses, and a lovely touch of vanillin oak. Medium-full, round and silky on the palate, with a fine core of fruit remaining, fine balance, and a moderately long, silky finish. This is not a wine of immense complexity, but it is sweet, juicy and velvety on the palate. Drink soon. 1997-2001. 87+.

1968 BV Napa Cabernet Sauvignon

Like the BV Reserves from the `68 and `70 vintage, the 1970 Napa is holding better than the 1968. Like so many wines that have begun their slide down, the nose here is still quite attractive, with scents of mature cherry fruit, coffee, woodsmoke, and a hint of vanillin oak. Medium-bodied and starting to break up on the palate, with the fruit fading and the acidity starting to take control on the finish. Still a fairly drinkable bottle, but this is a wine that's best days are behind it. At its peak, this must have been quite delicious, but it has been in decline for at least five years. Drink up. 85, 84, 83...

1966 BV Napa Cabernet Sauvignon

After the lovely 1968 and 1970 Napa bottlings, I was sorry to see the 1966 already on its way to the grave. The nose was still fairly sweet, with scents of black cherry, raisins, tobacco, grilled nuts, and malty hints of oxidation. The overall impression is port-like in terms of flavors, though the wine is clearly starting to dry out. Medium-bodied, round and gentle on the palate, with some fruit left, but oxidation already clearly gaining the upper hand. No doubt this was tasty wine in its day, but its day is now a decade ago. Drink yesterday. 84, 83, 82...

1968 BV Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Having one last bottle of this wine in the cellar, I am hoping that the bottle served here was not on its best behavior. It has been six years since I last saw a bottle of the `68 BV Reserve, which was drinking magnificently then, but a six year gap is certainly ample time for a mature wine to start its inevitable slide into oblivion. This particular bottle of the `68 was tiring noticeably, with the fruit drying out on the finish, and the overall structure showing signs of cracking up as well. The nose is still pretty, with scents of roasted cherry fruit, coffee, a hint of molasses, autumnal tones, and vanillin oak. Full-bodied and a bit ragged on the palate, the fruit is fading and no longer covers the framework of tannin on the finish. Certainly still a decent drink, but not up to the quality that this fine BV has continually drank at for the last two decades. I will retaste the 1968 BV Reserve soon from my cellar. I would have pulled the cork immediately, but I am saving it for a specific flight in a blind tasting to be held soon. After this particular bottle, I will certainly have an alternate wine standing for the tasting. ??????

1970 BV Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

There was a time when the 1968 BV Reserve was considered slightly finer than the equally stupendous 1970. If the bottle noted above is representative of the `68's stage of evolution, the 1970 is now destined to carry on the torch alone. This wine is as magnificent today as it was the first time I crossed paths with it back in 1989. At that time, there were many tasters that told me the wine had been drinking beautifully for a decade or more, and yet the wine continues to cruise along at a heady atmosphere.

1984 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon

Since its release, this has always been one of my favorite vintages of Martha's Vineyard, and at age thirteen, the wine is drinking magically, The nose is deep and rich, with scents of slightly roasted black cherries, plums, coffee, eucalyptus, tobacco and toasty new oak. Deep, full and opulent on the palate, with 1984s roasted tones translated into almost a nutty, coffee-like burnish to the sweet fruit. The finish is long, thick and well-balanced, with modest, ripe tannins buried in the fruit. This is a fine Martha's that has been pretty approachable since day one, and continues to drink beautifully, with no end in sight. Lovely stuff. 1997-2017. 93+.

1983 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon

1983 has always been a pretty hard, lean and charmless vintage, which showed so little promise out of the gate that I avoided offering many wines from the vintage. Consequently, I have very few tasting notes from this year. I was pleasantly surprised how the 1983 Martha's has evolved. The hard, tough edge of 1983 is still here, but the fruit is in no danger of falling behind the tannins, thus giving this wine a very strong chance of emerging from its tannic shell and drinking quite well. Medium-full in format, the wine offers up lovely resolution and complexity to its flavor profile on the palate, as well as a hard tannic edge. The stylish nose offers up scents of cherry, mint, tobacco, earth, truffle, and cedary wood. While this wine may never fully shed its austere edge, the tannins are certainly beginning to soften a bit, and another five years should allow a fine, medium-bodied wine to emerge and drink well for a decade. Given the difficulties in 1983, this is a major success. 2002-2015. 88.

1981 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon

The `81 Martha's is totally ready to drink. The wine is not endowed with this vineyard's customary plushness or depth, and is rather high-toned and thin on the palate, but quite tasty for all its lack of fireworks. The bouquet offers up scents of weedy cherry fruit, medicinal tones, nuts, truffles, cigar box and herbal notes. Really quite complex and appealing aromatically, the wine is quite light and thin on the palate, though certainly still balanced. The finish is complex and well-delineated, with just a whisper of tannin left. This is a wine of modest endowments, but nevertheless, a wine that is quite tasty and enjoyable to drink. Would make a fine companion at table. 1997-2002. 86+.

1980 Heitz "Martha's Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon

The `80 vintage has produced quite Rhone-like cabernets at chez Heitz. Both the Bella Oaks and the Martha's Vineyard share a roasted, meaty quality that is not typical of these other vintages of Heitz cabernets. On the nose this wine has hit its apogee, and is offering up a lovely melange of roasted cherry and plum fruit, grilled nuts, truffle, peppery notes, tobacco, herbs, and spicy wood. Deep, full and a point on the palate, with a fine core of fruit, melting tannins, and a long, complex finish. Ultimately, I think the 1984 Martha's Vineyard will land a bit higher up the quality ladder than the 1980, but this is certainly one of the fine vintages of Martha's, and drinking beautifully at the present time. Quintessential Napa cabernet at its peak, but where's that strong note of mint? 1997-2010. 91+.

1980 Heitz "Bella Oaks Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon

Served blind, I would insist that this is a mature example of Chateauneuf du Pape. The nose is quite roasted and meaty, with scents of high-toned red fruit, grilled meats, ground pepper, coffee, herbal notes, and cedary wood. Medium-full, round and peppery on the palate, with plenty of red fruit, a slightly chunky character, and a reasonably long, spicy, red fruit finish. The tannins have pretty well fallen away, though they are certainly less well-covered than in the better vintages of Martha's Vineyard. This is certainly a good, solid, middle tier cabernet at its peak, but it is a wine that offers modest flavor and aromatic interest. I would get more enjoyment out of drinking the thin 1981 Martha's and appreciating that wine's complexity in adversity than I would in drinking this bigger, but less complex bottle. 1997-2005. 86.

1992 Caymus Special Select (served from imperial)

Question: what is the last great Special Select? Answer: 1984. I have had enough vintages of Special Select from the 1975-1984 period to recognize when things are amiss with this wine. A significant percentage of the vineyards responsible for the old "Estate Bottled" cabernet have been included in the Special Select since 1985, and the result is a wine without the dramatic, Petrus-like levels of thick fruit that used to be this wine's calling card. The 1992 Special Select is still a fine wine, but give me the 1982 any day! The nose is quite dominated by the new oak, but offers up scents fo ripe black cherries, cassis, violets, tobacco, and wonderful, expensive vanillin oak. Medium-full and moderately intense on the finish, with barely enough fruit to stand up to the lovely oak on the palate, The finish is long, oaky, and stylish. My suspicion is that the people buying and enjoying this wine today never had the older vintages, and that the old-time enthusiasts of Special Select have bailed on the wine. Often wrong, but never in doubt.... 1997-2010. 90.

1994 Vineyard 29 Cabernet Sauvignon

Dick Grace was kind enough to pour me a big Riedel glassful of this wine on his recent visit to Gotham, and I am deeply indebted to his kindness and generosity. The `94 Vineyard 29 looks to be a wine that is approaching the quality level of the Grace Family wines. In both wines I detect a level of elegance and perfume that is rare for Napa cabernet, as well as a spice and floral component to the wines that has to be related to the terroir that the two neighboring vineyards share. The nose on the Vineyard 29 is lovely, with scents of blackberry fruit, cocoa powder, tobacco, violets, and sweet vanillin oak. Medium-full but intensely flavored on the palate, with the nuances that come with age yet to emerge, but all the constituent components in place to make this one delicious bottle of wine when maturity comes knocking. The finish is long, suave, and with the tannins beautifully integrated. One of Napa's most stylish new arrivals on the scene. 2001-2020. 93.

1995 Pahlmeyer Chardonnay

Let me go on record as saying that I absolutely loved the 1993 Pahlmeyer Chardonnay. However, I have had a difficult time warming up to the 1994 and 1995 chardonnays. The `95 is certainly complex enough on the nose, with scents of apples, lemon, wheat toast, leesy tones, minerals, honey and vanillin oak. However, this is a wine that could use a good deal more freshness of fruit, as it seems the lees were stirred too much, and the purity of the fruit has vanished as a result. Ona the palate the wine starts out fine, but tails off shockingly on the finish. This is literally a wine without a finish. Is this the Verget of California chardonnay? Give me a Peter Michael Mon Plaisir any day. 1997-2000. 86.

1996 Pinot Gris- Willakenzie Estate

One of Oregon's up and coming stars, the `96 Pinot Gris from Willakenzie delivers the varietal's lovely, creamy flavors in a snappy, high-acid format that is extremely food friendly. The nose offers up scents of apples, wheat toast, custard, spring flowers and a wisp of vanilla. Medium-full and very pleasingly crisp with youthful acidity on the palate; the wine displays excellent delineation, and a solid core of fruit in reserve when the acidity backs off a bit. The overall impression is of a complex, slightly high-toned Pinot Gris that takes its structural inspiration from the Loire Valley. A felicitous combination of ripe fruit and zesty acidity. 1997-2002. 87+.

1995 Pinot Noir- Willakenzie Estate

This is Willakenzie's basic pinot bottling, and in the context of the difficult 1995 vintage, this is an amazing effort. The nose is deep and pure, with scents of plums, black cherry, chocolate, smoke, herbs, and a deft touch of vanillin oak. Full-bodied and potentially quite lush, with a juicy core of fruit, moderate tannins, and a long, berry-like finish. This wine will never develop noteworthy complexity, but given the difficulties of the 1995 vintage for pinot in Oregon, this wine is a revelation. For the $18.00 pricetag, this is a steal. 1997-2005. 89.

1995 Adelsheim Pinot Noir

1995 was by no means a fine year for pinot in Oregon. After the torrid growing season of 1994, the 1995 pinot crop struggled to ripen. Many of the 1995s that I have tasted have been pretty tough, barely ripe wines that have bitten back when sloshed and swirled. Adelsheim's `95 regular cuvee is less severe than some I have tasted, but it is by no means a shining success story for the vintage. The nose is rather one-dimensional and tough, with underripe scents of stewed plums, pepper, green tomatoes, wood smoke, herbal notes and a touch of new oak. Medium-full and rigid on the palate, with the peppery, herbal green notes carrying through on the palate. Coupled with a tarry streak, this is pretty lean and stingy wine for drinking right now, and with a very questionable level of fruit for outlasting the tannins and acidity. Certainly was a very difficult vintage for Oregon pinot noir, and in the context of the vintage's complexities, this is perhaps a laudable effort. However, no amount of empathy is going to make the wine taste any better. I would opt for drinking it up before the little bit of sweet puppy fat fruit the wine has disappears; once that is gone, there is not going to be a lot left that is enjoyable. 1997-1999. 84.

1989 Williams-Selyem "Rochioli" Pinot Noir

Really a lovely showing for this wine. The bouquet offers up scents of sweet cherry, beetroot, and strawberry fruit, mustard seed, coffee, herb tones, minerals, rose petals, and vanillin wood on the nose. As has been my experience with other Williams-Selyem bottlings, this is a wine with stunning complexity in fruit and herb/spice nuances, but cannot deliver the important bottom third of terroir that makes great Burgundy so compelling. However, this wine delivers everything else in terms of fruit and spice that one could ever ask for. Don't get me wrong, I think W-S takes pinot noir to its highest level of accomplishment outside of the Cote d'Or, and I am certainly not removing my name from the mailing list. On the palate the wine is totally at its peak, with sweet, candied fruit on the attack, a juicy middle, excellent focus, and a long, tangy, impressively complex finish. Make no mistake about this, Williams-Selyem's Rochioli bottling is unquestionably a wine to search out in any vintage. Stunning stuff at its apogee. 1997-2007. 92+.

1995 W.H. Smith Pinot Noir "Hellenthal Vineyard"

This wine is made by Helen Turley for the Smiths who own La Jota. To my knowledge, it is the first commercial release of this wine. Overall, it is a quite nice bottle of pinot noir, but not up to the levels of the recent releases from Williams-Selyem or Dehlinger that I have tasted. The nose is quite evolved already, with plenty of autumnal and underbrush tones in the ascendancy. Scents of ripe black raspberries, bitter chocolate, forest floor, wood smoke, herbs, tarry notes and toasty new oak emerge from the glass. On the palate the wine is medium-full, quite round and supple, with more noticeable sweetness to the fruit than the bouquet would indicate. The finish is long, very modestly tannic, and quite well-layered. Over all, I would be pleased to see a bit more up front fruit to the wine, but this is certainly a success. If the complex melange of underbrush could become the bass notes for more raspberry and plummy fruit, this wine could become one of the stars of California pinot. It is certainly a wine to watch. 1997-2005. 89+.

1992 Clos Erasmus

This wine is still very, very young, and I can understand some taster's attraction to the serious levels of depth and extract that the wine displays, but I, for one, certainly do not find potential greatness here. The nose is ripe and young, with scents of black raspberry jam, coffee, tobacco, minerals, clove, and plenty of spicy new oak. Time will certainly tell, but my initial impression that this wine is cut along the lines of many California cabernets, with dramatic levels of up front fruit, but little evidence in its youth that it will display complexity and breed as it ages. On the palate the wine is deep, full and packed with jammy fruit, with plenty of stuffing, as well as the rigidity of youth. The tannins are fairly well covered, and the finish is long, chewy and closes with more raspberry jam. I am sure Clos Erasmus would love to be making Spain's answer to Chateau Lafleur or Le Pin, but I get just as much Ravenswood Pickberry as I do Lafleur. Was I always such a grumpy old man? 2002-2020. 90.