Wine Vault: Christopher Cannan Preview Tasting- June 25, 1997 A Christopher Cannan Snapshot: Vega and Friends

The Wine List:

1993 Rioja Reserva "Vina Alberdi"- La Rioja Alta

1990 Rioja Reserva- Baron de Ona

1989 Rioja Reserva "Vina Ardanza"- La Rioja Alta

1987 Rioja Gran Reserva "904"- La Rioja Alta

1981 Rioja Gran Reserva "890"- La Rioja Alta

1994 Ribeuro del Duero Crianza- Mauro

1994 Ribeuro del Duero Reserva- Alion

1992 Valbueno "5 Ano"- Vega Sicilia

1985 Vega Sicilia Unico

1970 Vega Sicilia Unico

1968 Vega Sicilia "Unico"

Vega Sicilia Unico Reserva Especial

1995 Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Reserve"- Domaine de la Vieille Julienne

Champagne Brut Blanc de Blanc- Pierre Gimmonet

1990 Champagne Brut Blanc de Blanc "Fleuron"- Pierre Gimmonet

1996 Minervois- Domaine Piccinini

1994 Corbieres Bicentaire "Vieilles Vignes"- Etang de Colombes

1993 Albana di Romagna Passito- Scacco Matto

1989 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos- Oremus

1981 Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos- Oremus

1975 Essencia- Oremus

1993 Rioja Reserva "Vina Alberdi"- La Rioja Alta

La Rioja Alta is one of the finest bodegas in the Rioja region, turning out classically structured, intensely flavored wines that deliver Rioja's finest attributes of sweet fruit, great spices, and broad flavor spectrums without undue weight. Located in the Rioja Alta region from which it takes its name, where chalky limestone soils are the norm, these can be some of Spain's most compellingly aromatic red wines. The " Vina Alberdi" is a three year-old Crianza bottling, that can be excellent in many vintages. The 1993 is lovely, with a complex bouquet of strawberry, mustard seed, chocolate, smoked meats and cedary, spicy wood. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied, but possessing excellent intensity of flavor (a la Burgundy), with a silky mid-palate, and a long, complex finish. While the color is quite light, this is a wine with formidable depth and breadth of flavor. Lovely stuff. 1997-2002. 89.

1990 Rioja Reserva- Baron de Ona

This is one of the new fangled Riojas that take their inspiration from Bordeaux. I am not sure if the cepage includes cabernet sauvignon, but the wine certainly tastes and smells as if it does. The oak cooperage is also French, rather than American. The nose is quite deep and black fruity, with scents of cassis, plum, tobacco and cedar. This wine certainly is bigger and more tannic than the "Vina Alberdi" bottling from La Rioja Alta, but it is also less complex and interesting. Perhaps my prejudices are showing, but for me this well-made wine lacks a bit of soul. Give it a year in the cellar. 1998-2002. 87.

1989 Rioja Reserva "Vina Ardanza"- La Rioja Alta

This wine so insistently demonstrates the close aromatic and flavor parallels between Rioja and Burgundy. The nose is very complex and potentially autumnal, with scents of raspberry, plum, forest floor, venison, and vanillin oak. Served blind, I am sure I would guess this wine to be from Vosne-Romanee! Not much fuller or deeper than the "Vina Ardanza" on the palate, but with much more complexity and intensity of flavor, the "904" Gran Reserva is a very suave, complete wine that should continue to develop even more nuance and complexity as it ages. Drink it over the next five years to ten years. 1997-2007. 93.

1981 Rioja Gran Reserva "890"- La Rioja Alta

I remember well the outstanding Rioja Reservas from the fine 1981 vintage. Not surprisingly, La Rioja Alta's top Gran Reserva cuvee, the "890" is extraordinary from this vintage. The nose is again very Burgundian, but with much more development than the nose on the 1987 "940": scents of cherry, sous bois, mushroom, herb tones, coffee, smoke and cedar soar from the glass. Medium-full, round and very silky on the attack, the wine's lightish color belies a palate that positively explodes on the backend. The finish is very long and intensely flavored. This is a great, great bottle of Rioja, but its $70.00 plus pricetag is a lot harder to swallow than the wine. 1997-2005. 94+.

1994 Ribeuro del Duero Crianza- Mauro

The 1994 Mauro is not yet available. It is a blend of 90 percent tempranillo and 10 percent old vine grenache, and is made by Vega Sicilia winemaker, Mariano Garcia. The nose is lovely, with scents of bright cherry fruit, red currants, chocolate, rosemary, and vanillin oak. Full-bodied and potentially quite velvety, with good length, modest tannins, and a long finish. This is a quite stylish, concentrated Ribeuro for mid-term consumption. 1997-2003. 90.

1994 Ribeuro del Duero Reserva- Alion

The Alion domaine is owned by Vega Sicilia, and destined to be one of the stars of this region. Aged in French oak barrels (mostly Alliers), and made from 100 percent tempranillo, this seems to be Vega's answer to the challenge of Pesquara. The nose is spectacular, with Richebourg-like scents of plums, blackberry, coffee, herb tones, Vosne spices, hints of game, violets and toasty new oak. Deep, full and packed with fruit on the palate, with excellent focus, a juicy core of fruit, ripe tannins, and a long, very complex finish. This is a very serious wine that could use an additional year or two in the cellar after its release in the fall of 1997. 2000-2012. 92.

1992 Valbueno "5 Ano"- Vega Sicilia

The Valbueno five year old bottling, as is often the case, is in need of a few more years in the cellar. The potential for the '92 is unmistakably excellent, with a stunning bouquet of Lafite-like cigar box tones married to scents of ripe plums, chocolate, herbs and minerals. The oak treatment on this wine is very, very sophisticated. Medium-full, young and concentrated on the palate, with great balance, lovely incipient complexity, firm, but ripe tannins, and a long, suave finish. The Valbueno "5 Ano" needs five more "anos" in the cellar to reach its apogee, where it should cruise along beautifully for another decade or more. Great stuff. 2002-2015. 92.

1985 Vega Sicilia Unico

The 1985 Unico is destined to fall into the excellent, but non-legendary vintages of this great red wine. While not quite in the league of titans such as 1968 and 1970, this is one magnificent bottle of wine. The nose is classic Vega, with scents of super-ripe plums, tomatoes, chocolate, herb tones, lead pencil, minerals, floral notes and cedary wood exploding from the glass. Deep, full, and still quite reticent on the palate, with layers of ripe fruit, phenomenal focus and balance, and a long, moderately-tannic finish. This will be a Unico of extraordinary elegance and polish when fully mature. 2001-2020. 94+.

1970 Vega Sicilia Unico

This bottle was not showing as open and opulent as previous examples I have had, but was still unmistakably a great, great wine. The nose here is just a touch reticent for 1970 Vega (and very much so in the context of 27 year-old wines!), with scents of sweet plum, mullberry, chocolate, minerals, lead pencil, violets, tobacco and cedary oak. On the palate the wine beautifully-focused, with a fine core of fruit, fine acidity and grip, plenty of tannin on the long and complex finish. One of the legendary non-French reds ever made, and amazingly youthful for a twenty-seven year-old wine. I would still opt for holding this wine another six to eight years- the best is yet to come! 2005-2040. 97+.

1968 Vega Sicilia "Unico"

The 1968 Vega is a bigger, thicker, more powerful wine than the equally stupendous 1970. The profound nose explodes from the glass with scents of plum, cassis, chocolate, tobacco, herbs, leather, and plenty of sweet vanillin oak. Huge and thick with fruit on the palate, this super-charged wine is impeccably well balanced, with fine focus, ripe tannins, and a long, complex, tidal wave of a finish. Simply said, this monumental wine is still not even remotely near its apogee. Don't get me wrong, it is fabulous to drink now, but it is going to get even better. This is a wine that has similar weight and presence as 1947 Cheval Blanc! 1995-2035. 97+.

Vega Sicilia Unico Reserva Especial

This is a newer release of this special cuvee than the bottle reported on by Stephen Tanzer in his Vega Sicilia Vertical report in the International Wine Cellar in Issue 58, January/February 1995. That bottling was supposed to be a blend of the 1959, 1960 and 1961 vintages. The current release is made up of wines from the 1968, 1970, 1981 and 1985 vintages. It is not too bad! The utterly profound, multi-dimensional nose explodes from the glass with scents of plummy fruit, mulberries, herb tones, hints of tobacco, exotic spices, orange rind, chocolate, and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is extremely long and complex, with layer upon layer of fruit and nuance, soft, melting tannins, and an incredible, long, long finish. Much more evolved than the 1968 or 1970 Unicos, the Reserva Especial should nonetheless continue at this magical summit for decades. Is it better than 1968 or 1970? No, just different. I would dearly love to have a stash of this wine in the cellar to protect the 1968 and 1970 from infanticide! 1997-2015. 97+.

1995 Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Reserve"- Domaine de la Vieille Julienne

I have not had any of this property's wines in the past, and based on the showing of this special cuvee, I have been missing out on something special. The "Cuvee Reserve" is aged in new, small oak barrels. While there are more and more examples of Chateauneuf reserve bottlings aged in new oak, there are very few who handle the oak with as much dexterity as Vieille Julienne. The nose is very deep, pure, and redolent of grenache, with scents of black raspberry, grilled meats, black pepper, plenty of spice, violets and sweet vanillin oak. Stylistically, there is more than a hint of Chateau Rayas here. Deep, full and beautifully balanced on the palate, with a huge core of sweet fruit, great length, perfectly integrated new wood, and a long, profound finish. I have not been this excited by a Chateauneuf in a long, long time. Don't miss this wine! 1997-2017. 95.

Champagne Brut Blanc de Blanc- Pierre Gimmonet

Most of Gimmonet's holdings are in the town of Cramant, located in the heart of the Cote de Blancs. He is certainly a name to watch for, as this is an extremely elegant and beautiful Champagne. The bouquet offers up scents of ripe pears, freshly-baked biscuits, white chocolate, limestone, and spring flowers. Medium-bodied, elegant and stylish on the palate, with pinpoint bubbles, bright acids, lovely focus, and a clean, complex, long finish. One of the most stylish non-vintage Bruts I have tasted. It should age quite nicely. 1997-2007. 91.

1990 Champagne Brut Blanc de Blanc "Fleuron"- Pierre Gimmonet

The "buzz" around the 1990 vintage has been very, very positive, with many commentators talking of the potential for multiple examples of sheer profundity. Given how fine Gimmonet's NV Brut is, and the accolades concerning the 1990s, I was surprised that I did not like this wine better. The nose is much deeper-pitched than the NV, with scents of overripe pears, honey, minerals, sourdough bread and biscuity tones. Fuller-bodied and crisper on the attack than Gimmonet's NV Brut, but with the acids sticking out somewhat, and the wine tailing off on the finish. Perhaps all the components will become better-integrated with a bit of bottle age, but the overall delicacy and impeccable balance of the NV Brut is sorely missed in the 1990 vintage. 1998-2003. 89.

1996 Minervois- Domaine Piccinini

Piccinini was the head of the local co-operative in Minervois, and only began estate bottling in the 1990 vintage. From the looks of the 1996, this is one of the names to look for in this underrated appellation. The nose explodes from the glass with scents of pure raspberry fruit, violets, coffee, grilled meats, herbs and minerals. Deep, full-bodied, and amazingly well delineated on the palate, this is a Minervois fruit bomb that is able to retain its shape and structure throughout the bombardment of ripe fruit. The finish is long, lush and softly-tannic. An incredible steal (it should sell around $8.00), this is a wine worth searching out. 1997-2000. 89+.

1994 Corbieres Bicentaire "Vieilles Vignes"- Etang de Colombes

This is another Christopher Canaan selection that proves the man knows his way around the south of France. The nose is stunning, with scents of black cherry fruit, herb tones, tobacco, smoke and minerals. Full and complex on the palate, with Bordeaux-like shape and structure, ripe tannins, and a long, complex, captivating finish. One of the finest examples of Corbieres I have ever tasted. Another excellent value ($10.00). 1997-2002. 89+.

1993 Albana di Romagna Passito- Scacco Matto

If memory serves me correctly, the young lady who makes this wine apprenticed at Chateau Climens in Barsac. It is a Passito (the grapes dried on straw mats prior to fermentation) that has been aged in new, French oak barrels (a la Sauternes). The result is the single finest Italian dessert wine that I have ever had the pleasure to taste. The magical nose explodes from the glass with scents of sweet pineapples, coconut, ripe pears, minerals, floral topnotes, and plenty of vanillin oak. Deep and very snappy on the palate, with a lovely sheen of botrytis, a creamy, opulent mid-palate buttressed with Eiswein-like acidity, and an explosive, long finish. This is utterly profound juice! 1997-2025. 96.

1989 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos- Oremus

The Tokaji region has been frequented with foreign investment in the aftermath of the fall of the Berlin wall. The Oremus domaine is owned by Vega Sicilia. Tokaji Aszu wines are made by adding a certain number of "puttonyos" of botrytized grapes that have been left to sit in vats for 6-8 days prior to pressing into a pulp. Each "puttony" consists of 20-25 kilograms of pulp, which is blended with 140 litres of base wine prior to fermentation. The more puttonyos, the higher the ultimate sweetness of the wine. The five puttonyos bottling is fine stuff, with classic scents of apricots, a touch of honey, and orange rind on the nose. Medium-full and possessing adequate depth, this is a well-made wine that correctly reflects its region. It is a fine introductory bottle of Tokaji Aszu. 1997-2002. 86.

1981 Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos- Oremus

The six puttonyos is a huge step up from the five. Caramel in color, the nose on the six puttonyos is much more complex and nuanced, with scents of caramel, plenty of honey, tea leaves, apricots, grilled nuts and minerals. Deep, long and very complex on the palate, with a fine core of fruit, solid acids, and great grip on the finish. Serious juice. 1997-2008. 91.

1975 Essencia- Oremus

A very, very rare bottling of nectar. The color is amber-brown, flecked with glints of gold and green. This made from the free run juice found at the bottom of vats of botrytis-infected grapes awaiting pressing into a paste to be blended into Tokaji wine for fermenting into the more familiar numbered puttonyos bottlings. This "essence" takes years to ferment, and must be aged at least ten years prior to release. Its rarity ensures an extremely high pricetag, but at least the quality is commensurate.. The magical nose offers up scents of molasses, creme caramel, tea leaves, intriguing herbal notes, minerals, and slices of orange-like citrus fruit. As delightful as the bouquet is, it does not prepare one for the fireworks on the palate! Very sweet and unctuous on the attack, with bracing, zesty acidity to keep the wine light and snappy on its feet, the finish is a long, cascading, seemingly endless wave of botrytized, honeyed fruit and zesty acids. Utterly profound juice. 1997-2097. 98.