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La
Monacesca di Matelica, Marche Region Italy
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La Monacesca
La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica is one of
those rare and great wines that only nature in
its optimum wisdom knows how to put together such
unique conditions as great soil and microclimate.
It all began hundreds of thousands of years ago
when Italy, rather than a peninsula, was merely
a chain of islands running south from the European
continent into the Mediterranean Sea.
As millenniums went by and the seawaters withdrew,
the chain of islands emerged to reveal what today
is the Apennine Mountain chain, which runs south
through the center of the Italian peninsula, towering
over the beautiful plains of the coastline. La
Monacesca Estate is situated in the township of
Matelica in the Marche region of central Italy
and it climbs from the narrow strip of coast up
to a large chunk of the Apennines concealed from
the eyes of travelers. The soil composition of
this area has revealed that for several millennium
the waters must have been retained in this sort
of mountainous inlet, leaving in its soil, rich
marine residuals and marl which in turn mixed
into a clayey, sandy composite. This vegetation-rich
mountainous area was discovered around the 12th
Century by a group of monks who were fleeing to
the mountain range to escape the barbaric hordes
that often roamed along the coastline. On these
fertile grounds, the monks, taken by the protected
natural position of the land, decided to settle
in and proceeded to build a monastery and work
the land. In the ensuing centuries, groups of
migrant peasants finished the job of colonization
of the whole area, which today is called Matelica.
Worthy of particular note, because of the indispensable
role it plays in the structural quality of the
grapes, is the strong presence of potassium found
in the chemical composition of the soil of the
Estate. Potassium most of all increases the richness
of sugar in the grapes and a stronger maturation
of the vine's branches with consequent greater
resistance to the cold (the near mountain range
brings plenty of snow over the Estate for almost
two to three months of winter), and also a greater
resistance to drought, and indispensable quality
considering the hot summer months in these high
places. Finally, the vine has a greater resistance
to all forms of parasite attacks, which gives
Cifola the fortunate ability to grow his grapes
virtually without any form of intervention or
treatments, a quality which the educated consumer
has learned to treasure about these wines.
Casimiro Cifola was first attracted to the area
in the early sixties, having been exposed to the
delicious wines which he had obtained from the
farming families who were producing wines just
for local consumption, using very simple equipment
and harvesting indigenous grape varietals. Cifola
marveled that no one had yet given serious consideration
to a winemaking venture in the area. Although
he already owned a property in the lower plains
of the coastline, and had no serious experience
with vineyards or winemaking, he decided to invest
in a wine making venture by buying the best land
available near the sight of the ancient monastery.
He decided to call the estate La Monacesca which
means "The Monastic Estate".
After a couple of years of experimentation with
clones and plant density, finally in the late
sixties, he went into wine production with the
harvest of its selected vineyards of the Verdicchio
varietals (80% of the vineyards) and of the Malvasia
varietal (20% of the vineyards). He proceeded
to produce two wines, the Verdicchio di Matelica
Cifola, which comes from the overall harvest of
the whole estate, and the Verdicchio di Matelica
La Monacesca which is the Estate's Riserva and
comes from the harvest of his choice vineyards.
In 1981, after graduating with honors from the
University of Agriculture in Bologna, Aldo Cifola
joined his father in the further development of
the winery. From the moment Aldo began working
with his father, he initiated new techniques,
placing the greatest attention on the viticulture,
realizing it takes a great grape to produce a
great wine. He then turned his attention to the
cellar, which he completely rebuilt in 1988, with
all the latest modern equipment for the production
of a great quality white wine. The rest is history
as the wine "aficionados" have discovered with
the great fruity rich white wine called Verdicchio
di Matelica, which is today, a high note in white
wine tasting in the finest wine establishments.
La Monacesca Web site: http://www.assivip.it/aziende/fattorialamonacesca.htm
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La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matelica
For this beautiful Cru wine, the Cifolas use clusters
that come from the high northwest side of their
vineyard of Verdicchio. The clusters are put in
plastic boxes and carried to the winery and immediately
soft pressed (Vaslin pressed); the first and second
pressing gives them the product for this wine.
They don't put any sulfites in the clusters or
in the must, because they want the must to ferment
and in this way reduce the polyphenolic charge
of the wine. *(polyphenols are substances in wine
that impart bitterness - sulphur binds polyphenols
to wine).
The must is then cleaned with a cold system, reducing
the temperature to 2 degrees - 3 degrees C, for
24 hours; the suspended particles drop to the
bottom and then the clean must is removed and
put into another tank ready for fermentation.
The fermentation starts with selected yeast's,
namely saccaromyles bayanus, normally used in
France for sparkling wines, but very useful for
this wine because they can work also in a high
alcoholic degree environment, and they don't give
the wine any particular fragrance - thus the wine
scents are original, coming only from the grapes.
The fermentation goes on for 15 to 20 days in
20 - 21 degrees C temperature, and when this is
finished we have the malolactic fermentation that
normally goes on until the environment temperature
is 20 degrees C, and then stopped. This fermentation
will start again the Spring (May or June) and
finishes in June or July. Two months after this
the Cru is bottled.
La Monacesca has a pale straw color with vivacious
bright green reflections. The bouquet is light,
soft and with continuity. The flavor is intense
with a delicious light, dry fruity aroma.
Grape Variety : Verdicchio
Camerte
La Monacesca Estate is situated in the township
of Matelica in the Marche region of central Italy
and it climbs from the narrow strip of coast up
to a large chunk of the Apennines concealed from
the eyes of travelers. The soil composition of
this area has revealed that for several millennium
the waters must have been retained in this sort
of mountainous inlet, leaving in its soil, rich
marine residuals and marl which in turn mixed
into a clayey, sandy composite. This vegetation-rich
mountainous area was discovered around the 12th
Century by a group of monks who were fleeing to
the mountain range to escape the barbaric hordes
that often roamed along the coastline. On these
fertile grounds, the monks, taken by the protected
natural position of the land, decided to settle
in and proceeded to build a monastery and work
the land. In the ensuing centuries, groups of
migrant peasants finished the job of colonization
of the whole area, which today is called Matelica.
The most exciting wine I tasted @ Vinitaly in
2000 was this red wine ,Camerte's Winemaker Aldo
Cifola has assembled a great wine here and it
is worth every penny! One of the most beautiful
vineyard sites I have ever seen is where he has
planted 70% Merlot (cuttings from Petrus) and
30% Brunello (cuttings from Biondi-Santi). This
is ancient red wine country in fact the name "Camerte"
signifies the ancient name of the area ,Camertinum.
My tasting notes are as follows:
"Deep rich color ,tinged with crimson hue. Raspberry
,currants , dried cherries, red fruits, blackberries,
concentration of intense jammy fruit(compote de
fruit), cedar, tobacco. Fresh entry into the palate,
good tannins, anise, some tight fruit,and tight
wood. Elegant, full of flavor, dry, healthy fruit,
healthier acids, still young so the tannins are
a bit lively at this point. 13 months in new wood
(Allier), 11 months in older wood and goes into
barrique after fermentation.
1500 case production 4 hectre vineyard
Allocation Status: Allocated & Extremely Rare
3 Bicchieri in Gambero Rosso 2002 for 1999 Vintage
2 Bicchieri in Gambero Rosso 2001 for 1998 Vintage
Mirum
Destined to be a fabled wine of limited availability,
Mirum is made only in the best vintages from 100%
Verdicchio at full ripeness. The grapes are selected
from a special vineyard noted for its quality
of fruit. They are late harvested to maximize
all the best virtues of this varietal. It is then
fermented to dryness and aged for 18 months in
stainless steel tanks with an additional 6 months
in the bottle before ever being released. This
wine is not made every year, because the weather
must be just perfect to produce this great wine
which is reminiscent of the great white Burgundys.
Mirum is one of Italy's few white wines ever to
receive a two star rating in the National Italian
Wine category by Luigi Veronelli. In 1995, in
the winter issue of Gambero Rosso, the Cifola's
were ranked as one of the top wineries of Italy.
Mirum has an intense straw color, delicate fruity
aroma of golden plums, and firm flavor of remarkable
length with a gentle note of acidity.
Grape Variety : Verdicchio
Ecclesia
This wine is obtained with 8 different French
Chardonnay clones. This clone mix is used because
in this area the Chardonnay grape can have a breakdown
of acidity in certain seasons. If you use more
clones, every year you have a medium level of
acidity and so you can resolve this problem. The
exposure of this vineyard is completely different.
Here we have an East-West exposure, the contrary
of the Verdicchio (North-South). Chardonnay doesn't
like too much sun and it prefers an environment
of little humidity. These clusters are handled
in the same manner as the Verdicchio. The harvest,
however, is the first day of September, while
for the Verdicchio Cru it is the 10th of October.
The Ecclesia is normally aged for one year, without
wood.
Ecclesia has a light dry fruity aroma and a delicious
flavor with well structured depth and elegance.
Grape Variety : Chardonnay
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